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FORMULATIONS: THE NEW TRENDS
"In all segments of society, awareness is growing when it comes to the importance of living a sustainable, healthy lifestyle that preserves resources," explains Eleonora Mazzilli, Beautystreams Trend Localization & Business Development Director, North America. "Riding the wave of adopting a conscious lifestyle, there is an increasing demand for vegan and cruelty-free cosmetics. Due to innovations in data science, artificial intelligence, facial recognition, and digital analysis, we are seeing a customization of color cosmetics and a more personalized and tailored approach to beauty. On the other side of things, the growing attention to sustainability is driving the development of products with sustainably-sourced ingredients, responsible formulas, ethical practices, and sustainable packaging for the planet, which will be a recurring theme for lip products in the coming years."

Textures, as well as fragrances and colors, play a key role in consumer choices. Even lipsticks are looking to appeal increasingly more often to multiple senses and play with textures that embrace touch, smell, and sight. The vocabulary of foodies is influencing new lipstick textures to the point where you can hear people talking about light textures similar to cotton candy or soufflé. There are formulas that range from fluffy and creamy to buttery and jelly-like and lipsticks with textures that offer cooling and warming sensations and multi-chromatic or wet finishes. Meanwhile, long-lasting lipstick formulas, which tended to dry out the skin and lips, are being reinvented so they’re barely felt and light as a feather. These textures provide an extremely comfortable 'tattoo effect' that makes long-wear cosmetics wonderful to wear, while at the same time also providing perfect, smooth application for intense color that lasts for hours.

Plumping lipsticks, in glossy, satin/semi-opaque, and ultra-opaque versions, are also gaining space in the market together with long-wear, transfer-proof, and smudge-proof lipsticks, offering lips hydration and long-lasting protection. In addition to color and shine, the next-generation lip products also offer long-lasting 3D brilliance, with a high-impact chromatic look and unique metallic effects. And then there are serum lipsticks, with lightweight pigmented formulas offering good coverage, a touch of color combined with comfort and hydration, which represent a new way to provide long-lasting color and hydration to lips.

As the line between skincare and makeup becomes increasingly blurred, a new generation of lipsticks formulated with ingredients taken from the skincare world is making its way onto the market, actively improving the condition of lips. Makeup becomes 'make-care,' and lip products are enriched with active ingredients to support their function as a barrier, provide a healthy microbiome, ward off wrinkles, give deep hydration, or boost collagen. And then there is the growing concern, especially among younger generations towards health and protecting the wellbeing of animals and the environment, driving the formulation world to find vegan and green alternatives.

"The growing sensitivity to these issues is pushing brands and suppliers towards clean, safe, ethical, natural, and sustainable vegan alternatives," continues Eleonora Mazzilli, Beautystreams Trend Localization & Business Development Director, North America. "Avoiding the use of synthetic or animal-derived pigments in formulations can, however, be difficult, as vegan and plant-based pigments do not always meet consumer expectations. Nevertheless, in recent years some brands and suppliers have managed to offer a new generation of vegan pigments derived from fruits and vegetables capable of creating high-performing lipstick formulas that can legitimately claim to be vegan and cruelty-free. Furthermore, brands are also shifting towards recycled raw materials and biodegradable ingredients to create a more circular economy and establish trust with eco-conscious consumers."

And what about packaging? When it comes to lips, packaging manufacturers are being asked to focus on ease of use, perfect product dispensing, aesthetic research, and sustainability. While user experience is becoming increasingly relevant, with manufacturers hunting for solutions that guarantee pleasure and functionality, sustainability remains at the top of the list of priorities for both brands and consumers.