Perfumeries in Italy: Between Retail Giants and Independent Charm.
The channel grew by 9.5% in 2024
In a recent analysis of perfumeries in Italy,
Pambianco takes stock of the current state of the channel, highlighting the
strong performance of the major chains – with Douglas, Pinalli, and Marionnaud
topping the list of best performers – as well as the crucial role played by
independent perfumeries. Although smaller in number, these independents remain
strategic for the distribution of high-end beauty. The study also shows that
Italian perfumeries continue to invest in both physical and online retail, focusing
on distinctiveness, customer loyalty, exclusive launches, beauty services, and
customer care.
In 2024, the channel recorded growth of +9.5%,
reaching a value of nearly €2.8 billion, with trends polarized between
traditional distribution and franchised networks. Among product categories,
fragrances (both feminine and masculine) dominate, accounting for over 62% of
total sales. The distribution of high-end products, such as eau de cologne and
perfumes, made a significant impact, with female products growing by 11.2% and
male products by 10.3% (source: Cosmetica Italia). In addition, haircare is experiencing
a particularly positive moment in chain stores, thanks to the expanded
distribution of many traditional brands previously limited to professional
channels and the entry of emerging international brands.
THE CHAINS
Once again this year, Douglas, Pinalli, and Marionnaud rank at the top, with
revenues of €521.5 million (+9.6%), €170.5 million (+24.5%), and €84.4 million
(-0.1%), respectively. It is important to note that the ranking (which
considers the A1 item of the income statement) does not include Sephora, a
leading name in LVMH’s selective distribution, whose results are not broken out
by the luxury group. Behind the channel’s positive performance are a wide
product range, customer focus, and retail network expansion, as well as the
growing success of vertical e-retailers, which have extended perfumeries’ reach
through digital channels. The integration of physical and online stores has
made the shopping experience more seamless, meeting evolving consumer needs.
Changes in consumer behavior also reflect a growing interest in sustainable and
natural products, with strong attention to eco-friendly packaging.
INDEPENDENT PERFUMERIES
Good news also for independent perfumeries. In a context of increasing market concentration, with large international groups expanding through acquisitions and extensive openings, independents become the preferred destination for a sophisticated audience seeking niche products, thanks to curated selections of exclusive brands, personalized service, and authentic direct relationships with customers. Leading the ranking in 2024 is Thaler, with a turnover of €20.9 million (+3.3% vs. 2023), followed by Comar Profumerie, a historic Parma-based company, with around €17 million (+3.4%), and A.M.D, which reached €16.4 million (+4.3% vs. last year).However, there are some negative notes. Among the top
ten brands in the ranking, three reported a decline compared to the previous
year, reflecting a selective market phase where more structured and adaptive
players emerge. Rising operating costs, pressure from major players, and
changing purchasing habits require more agile management models, targeted
partnership strategies, and increasing focus on experiential retail. The future
of the independent channel will therefore depend on its ability to turn proximity
into value, consultancy into relationships, and physical stores into spaces of
discovery.
